KRASH REPAIR
CDI testing
Outlined below are the instructions to check that an unresponsive CDI is receiving both constant 12V power and a 12V start signal when the start button is pressed. It will not take long (5-15 minutes) unless several problems are present.

You will require a multimeter along with a 4mm hex key to remove the e-box lid and a 3mm hex key to remove the CDI from the e-box.

 

CDI Power and Turn On Signals Test:

Remove CDI from e-box as we will be checking signals in the now exposed CDI connector

Set multimeter to volts (autorange or 20V setting is fine)

Connect jet ski 12V battery.

Connect the stator loom (3 yellow wires and one black wire) to the front cover of the engine and to the e-box

Connect the black multimeter probe to the e-box (threaded holes to retain lid work well)

Connect the red multimeter probe to the starter relay terminal nearest the lid of the e-box (that connects to the battery) and verify that battery voltage is present.

If no voltage is observed then the ebox is not getting either power or ground or the multimeter has a problem (verify multimeter by checking voltage directly across battery terminals)

Connect black multimeter probe to the GREEN/YELLOW wire terminal in CDI connector

Connect red multimeter probe to the RED wire terminal in CDI connector

Verify that battery voltage is shown on the multimeter. If no voltage is observed, skip to “12V Loom Troubleshooting Steps” below.

Keep the black multimeter probe connected to the GREEN/YELLOW wire terminal

Connect the red multimeter probe to the YELLOW wire terminal.

When pressing the START BUTTON, verify that battery voltage is shown on the multimeter. If it shows battery voltage then the CDI is receiving both signals it requires to operate and the CDI has likely failed. If no voltage is observed, skip to “Start Signal Loom Troubleshooting Steps” below.

12V Loom Troubleshooting Steps:

The CDI requires battery voltage (approx. 12.6-13.5V) to be present across the RED wire and GREEN/YELLOW wire in the CDI connector to work. At some point between the starter relay and the RED wire terminal in the CDI connector there is a problem.

For this test the black multimeter probe can be grounded anywhere on the e-box. The red probe is then connected to each of the points of interest.

Does the ski turn over (or the starter relay engage) when the start button is pressed? If yes, please skip to step 4.

Confirm that 12V is present on the starter relay terminal nearest the lid of the e-box.

If there is no voltage, then either:

The battery is likely not connected

The stator loom (3 yellow wires and one black wire) is not connected to the front cover of the engine and to the e-box.

There is a major fault in either the cable connecting the battery to the starter relay or the ground cable from the starter motor to the battery.

Follow the RED wire from the starter relay terminal nearest the lid of the e-box to the fuse holder. Confirm that 12V is present on both sides of the fuse.

If there is no voltage on the starter relay side of the fuse, there is likely an issue with the bullet connection between the starter relay and the fuse holder. See “Checking and Repairing Bullet Connections” below.

If there is no voltage on the other side of the fuse, either the fuse has failed or the fuse holder is not contacting the terminals of the fuse (squeezing it with pliers gently should fix this).

Moving along the RED wire on the side of the fuse away from the starter relay there are three bullet connections. Disconnect the bullet connection that provides power to the CDI (connected to the RED wire into the CDI connector that was tested earlier). Verify that 12V is present on the female bullet connection (not the CDI side that has been disconnected).

If no voltage is present then there is likely an issue within the female bullet crimp but first we need to verify that the 12V loom supplying the female bullet connection has 12V present.

Confirm the loom has 12V power by either:

Confirm that the engine turns over (or the starter relay engages) when the start button is pressed.

Disconnect the other two bullet connections (one goes to the bilge and the other to the regulator) and confirm that 12V is present on either of these female bullet terminals.

If no voltage is present, please go back to step 2 with the aim of identifying the point of discontinuity.

If there is 12V on the loom,  see “Checking and Repairing Bullet Connections” below.

If 12V is observed on the female bullet terminal then one or both of the issues below are present:

The male bullet crimp on the RED wire that leads to the CDI connector is not conducting. See “Checking and Repairing Bullet Connections” below.

In the CDI connector the RED wire terminal crimp has failed. See “Removing CDI Connector Terminals” below.

If all connections are verified between the starter relay and the RED wire into the CDI connector then 12V should now be present at the connector.

Start Signal Loom Troubleshooting Steps:

The CDI requires battery voltage (approx. 12.6-13.5V) to be present across the YELLOW wire and GREEN/YELLOW wire in the CDI connector when the START BUTTON is pressed to work. At some point between the 12V loom and the YELLOW wire terminal in the CDI connector there is a problem.

For this test the black multimeter probe can be grounded anywhere on the e-box. The red probe is then connected to each of the points of interest.

Does the ski turn over (or the starter relay engage) when the start button is pressed? If yes, please skip to step 6.

Disconnect the start/stop switch and confirm that the RED wire from the e-box to the start/stop switch connector shows 12V.

If not, go to 12V Loom Troubleshooting Steps above and then return to here.

Reconnect the start/stop switch

Disconnect the bullet connection between the YELLOW wire from the starter relay and the YELLOW start signal loom.

Confirm that 12V is present on the female bullet terminal connected to the YELLOW start signal loom when the START BUTTON is pressed.

If no voltage is observed then there is an issue with either the female bullet crimp or the start/stop switch. Carefully cut the heatshrink and slide back the female bullet insulation to expose the crimp. If there is a fault this is best to fix with a replacement female bullet terminal but can be fixed with solder if you don’t have any new bullet terminals. If this does not resolve the issue there is likely an issue with the start/stop switch, however, this is uncommon.

If voltage is observed and the starter relay does not engage (engine does not turn over), confirm battery voltage is above 12.6V and charge battery if needed. If the battery is charged then there is an issue either with the male crimp on the starter relay side of the bullet connection or an issue where this wire connects to the starter relay.

The starter relay engaging confirms there is 12V at the female bullet connector that connects the YELLOW start signal loom to the starter relay, the fact that this is not reaching the CDI connector means there is one of two possible issues:

Within the female bullet connection the YELLOW wire that leads to the CDI connector is isolated from the female bullet terminal that we have confirmed is getting 12V.

In the CDI connector the YELLOW wire terminal crimp has failed. See “Removing CDI Connector Terminals” below.

If all connections are verified between the RED wire of the start/stop switch connector and the YELLOW wire into the CDI connector then 12V should now be present at the connector when the start button is pressed.

Checking and Repairing Bullet Connections:

Carefully cut the heatshrink (not necessary for male bullet terminals) and slide back the bullet insulation to expose the crimp.

Inspect the crimp for anything preventing the core of the wire to contact the metal of the bullet terminal.

If there is a fault this is best to fix with a replacement bullet terminal (with the option of adding a dab of solder) but in a pinch the original bullet terminal can be fixed with solder if you don’t have any new bullet terminals (attempting to recrimp used bullet terminals is not recommended).

Removing CDI Connector Terminals:

Disconnect the CDI.

Remove yellow retaining clip from front of connector.

On top of each terminal there is a small black plastic tab that holds the terminal in place. Lift this tab gently and the terminal will be able to slide out the back of the connector. If the wire has been pulled out of the crimp then removed the rubber insulation that may be left behind in the back of the connector and the terminal should be able to fall out.

Inspect the crimp for anything preventing the core of the wire to contact the metal of the terminal. Problems can be fixed either with solder or replacement terminals.