Polaris IQ 440 to 600HO trail conversion NOTES Join our facebook group Polaris IQR AxysR trail conversion group

When you're ready to make a purchase give us a call and we can get you set up with everything you need and back it up with our tech support. You can also click on a link and purchase right off the web site.

The list below are notes on the changes, adjustments, and modifications we use when trail converting the Polaris IQ 440 to a 600HO. 600HO's will need the engine wire harness, CDI, fuel pump and all sensors. Swap mounting plates and it drops right in. You will also need new exhaust, clutch weights, springs, oil tank etc. Most recommendations on this page were based at an elevation of 0-2000ft except where noted differently. Most of these notes pertain to the 600RR as well.
The 600VES set up is similar however we run less primary weight and slightly lower jetting.

JETTING INFO: 600HO Jetting Chart   Note: we recommend a different e clip positions than what is stated on the Jetting Chart (usually one lower like #3 instead of #2 as posted)
Before you start, pull your needle and seats out of the carbs and check in the fuel inlet to insure there are not any plastic shavings from the installation of the plastic fuel fittings on the rack carbs. Many settings are similar to the 600RR
Jetting, 400 mains from -10 to +30 degrees Fahrenheit 0-2000ft of elevation (The range is 380-410) starter jet 145, pilot jet 35 or 40 is our favorite,  PAJ 0.7 or 0.8 (most have stock 0.6 PAJ and the change makes a big difference at idle) fuel screw normally 1-2 turns out. We run our carb vents into the air box. Jetting page
Jet Needle, J8-9DGN06-57(stock on 600HO)  e clip on #3 with a 35 or 40 pilot jet.
V Force 3 reeds in a 883 cage with 3 pedal carbon fiber reeds with recommended #122 stuffers and .100 spacers (V Force reeds have slightly larger than stock stuffers but cage is 3/8" shorter from top to bottom. The new cage is an 883 with 3 pedal reeds and that is what we are currently selling and the spacer kit now comes with it. Its on our Jetting page
Top RPM should be 8200 to 8300 but you may still run good even at only 8000 peak RPM
High altitude settings 8-10,000ft elevation: 250-300mains (260-270 work best) 145starter 30-35pilot with stock needle and e clip on #1. Some are using a different jet needle #9FH4-57-this one is wider from the tip going up, so leaner all the way through with a 35 pilot jet. Jetting page
VES engines will need different carb adaptors that are angled up and available here
Special note: Check your carb adaptors on all 440 and 600 engines. Many have separated between the rubber and metal and will leak air causing a lean condition resulting in a blown engine. Replace defectives with the newest upgraded ones here.
DRIVETRAIN AND GEARING:   Gearing Chart 1    Gearing Chart 2   
I think the gearing charts read mph about 10% high.
Stock 600RR gearing is hyvo 22:39 and will run about 90mph in great conditions according to the radar. We are running the same gearing and hitting the same speed. The Polaris book says it should run 98 +/- a little at 8300rpm but I think the book is always about 10% high. We have many differnt gearing set ups baised on your use of the sled. Call to purchase a custom set up. Many times we can do this without you having to purchase a different chain.
Primary Clutch 10-58 to 10-62 weights for most, (10-60 Belly Busters are our current favorite)
We have several different weights and springs we sell to meet your needs. Call to purchase a custom set up.
Driven Clutch  We recommend 2 Delrin washers to minimize friction placed together between the clutch sheave and the thrust washer, aka spring cup.
TSS98 Team secondary clutch, TSS44 Team secondary clutch & TIED
We have several different springs and helixes we sell to meet your needs.
High altitude settings We can get you everything you need once we get some altitude and sled info from you.
SKIS and CARBIDES:
Polaris stock snocross skis work great. Skis area available here. They have a full length carbide and are easy to find/replace at any local shop along the trail. 6" to 8" carbides work great for most people with studded tracks. We have a new Kimpex package ski/mount/carbide package all available for about $270-290 in most colors. Call to find out more.
SUSPENSION:
We recommend having your shocks revalved. We do provide the parts and service but call us first. When we run out of pistons and stacks they can take a couple weeks to get back in stock.  Our set up is pretty comfortable on the trail and still allows the rider to catch some air without bottoming out bad.
We also put on different front limiter straps (available through us) on the '05's to allow the front of the track to touch the ground and relieve a little ski pressure. On the '05's, drill out the next lower front torque arm mounting location on the tunnel and lower the arm and recheck your limiter straps. If the track is too tight remove rear idler wheel axle and take the plastic spacer blocks and grind them down in one spot where they will hit the front of rail slot. This will allow the spacer blocks to move further forward before they hit the adjuster bolts. If that doesn't solve the track tension then you may have to cut away some material from the rail to allow the rear axle to move further forward. At some point your wheels may touch the rear bumper pivot arm. If so move the arm forward to the next hole. We add 6 wheels to the suspensions to eliminate hifax wear and to protect the front track shock. We recommend at least 4.
Track: We fully clip all our tracks or buy them that way and always use tall nuts on the studs with double backer plates for more stability. Our #1 favorite track is the 1.5" Camoplast Intense. Our 2nd choice is the 1.352" Cobra. 600RR owners will benefit greatly by changing to one of these tracks.
ENGINE:
Left it stock and plugged the lines coming off the exhaust valves-not using the solenoid. We usually remove the thermostat and reuse the grommet to seal it or put in a 440 thermostat gasket. Either method seems to work fine. We normally plug the lower coolant bypass outlet. Some guys are using the lower bypass plug and adding in an extra t fitting and running it or a different coolant bottle with 3 fittings. Rerouting the hoses to do the front cooler first from the bypass hose and then the rear cooler after the t stat is probably the best way to do it. No matter what you do add the rear heat exchanger/cooler!
ELECTRICAL: wiring diagram
Best timing on the 600HO's seems to be 28 degrees BTDC at 3500 rpm with TPS unplugged. Stock was 26 degrees BTDC for most.
Its best to have the schematics or a service manual when doing any wiring. On the 600HO's in production model sleds they use a voltage regulator that produces 12vdc to run the exhaust valve solenoids and maybe some display stuff as well. The voltage regulator that comes on the production models outputs 12vac and 12vdc. The 600RR system uses a 12vdc lead coming from the stock voltage regulator.  The plug on the harness for the exhaust valve solenoid has a red/white wire and a white/yellow wire. The red/white wire is 12vdc from the converter in plug position j. The white/yellow wire goes to position e23 of the cdi plug position g. The cdi closes this to ground to open the solenoid when you start up. The solenoid is energized until you reach 6800 rpm then it closes allowing just compression pressure to open the valves. The gray wire from the purple cdi plug works the perc reverse. You can use your dragon button and put the other side/wire to ground or any brown wire. The two pin plug (black/white&white/black) use to plug into the 440 cdi for the dragon button may also need to be used for the temp light to work. My sources tell me to tie the black/white wire to the blue/white wire in position e24 from the cdi box to make the temp light work. Using the stock 440 regulator your charging coil will produce about 7-14vac. You can also rig up lights for low oil indicator, if you buy a stock oil tank with the sensor, and reverse. Some lighting can be done in the stock 440 tach but you may have to add bulbs first. Most of the indicator lights need a power wire and then the sensors or CDI will make a ground at the right time to complete the circuit and light up the light.
We highly recommend adding a Trail Tech Voyager Computer with GPS for temp, tach, speed etc.
EXHAUST:
We recommend our 600RR exhaust for most. The 600R exhaust will also work but you have to match the silencers used to the pipe as they are different. VES engines will need a different exhaust manifold that is angled up and available here You will need 2 new exhaust brackets if using the stable mounted Skinz silencers. Available on our exhaust page.
EXTRAS:
Skinz knee pads. These aren't just a wimpy pad. They have a thick neoprene feel to them and work great.
Our large clutch cover bag.
We also used a Polaris handlebar bag for any extras. Skinz also just made a low profile tank/map bag.
Under hood bag
Polaris hand guards and mounts
Handlebar risers
RSI large handle bar pad
Cargo net for rear of tunnel

We have a lot more products and information available for our customers. Contact us with your needs.
All the parts listed above are available from us starting HERE and backed up by our tech support
We stock some and can get all OEM Polaris parts too.
We can sell, service and install anything you need for your sled however we will not give out any part numbers, research, reference or trade information so please don't ask.

	IQR Technical Riding shirts now available SORRY, SOLD OUT see Arctiva Layering
JS Powersports would like to thank the following for sharing their time, dedication and tech notes: The entire Polaris race department, Tom Whitstine aka AkIQPilot on HCS, Ean Kuhlmey aka Anger890 on HCS and Craig Horak aka autolodge on HCS.